How To Break In a Leather Jacket the Right Way (And Three Ways I Avoid)

So. You have a stiff new leather jacket. It doesn’t look right. It doesn’t feel right.

You know you need to break it in.

But how?

In this post I’ll explain the best way to break in your leather jacket. And I’ll tell you three ways I’d personally avoid.

If you prefer learning via video, you can watch via my YouTube.

The Right Way to Break In a Leather Jacket

You need to wear your jacket to break it in correctly.

But what if the hide is heavy? Stiff? Covered in thick top coat? Stuffed with waxes and oils?

(A great jacket that requires some effort to break in: Schott 618 Perfecto Review)

You may have a long and difficult road ahead. How can you speed things up?

What you do is get the jacket wet, then wear until dry. But you don’t need to wait for the next rain shower.

Follow these five steps to speed up and better control the process:

1. Get a spray bottle and fill it with distilled water.
2. Zip the jacket closed, then use the spray bottle to get the whole exterior wet.
3. Wear the jacket until dry. Engage in your usual activities for best results.
4. Make sure the jacket is completely dry before returning to closet. Let it hang out overnight or for a few days.
5. Repeat as needed. I would give at least a few days between sessions.

Why This Is the Right Way

There are two major reasons to break in a jacket.

1. I want the jacket to look great by bringing out the natural character and helping it drape properly.
2. I need the jacket to be comfortable so that I can wear it without fatigue.

By wearing the jacket, I meet both goals by letting the shape and motion of my body inform the break in process.

Getting the jacket wet temporarily softens the fibers of the hide as they absorb water.

During this softened period, the effects of my wear time are magnified, speeding up the natural process.

In the end, you have a jacket that is looks great and feels comfortable.

Three Ways I Avoid

1. You can wear your leather jacket to sleep at night.

It will help speed up the break in by greatly extending your wear time.

You can also simulate wear by rolling up the jacket into a tight ball, unrolling it, then rolling it back up.

These methods do not let your body’s shape and motion inform the break in experience.

Plus, who wants to lose a night’s sleep in order to break in a jacket?

Not me.

2. You can put your leather jacket into the washing machine and/or dryer.

You can wash your leather jacket. Or put it in a dryer with no heat and some agitators.

This method can get the jacket wet and simulate LOTS of wear.

Big operations and experts use this method regularly.

So why not the little guy at home?

You run the risk of completely destroying your jacket. Stretching or tearing the leather, ripping apart seams and linings, odd friction-induced patterns.

Unless you’re willing to pay for knowledge in destroyed jackets, this method is best left to marvel at from a distance.

Besides, with the machine doing the hard work, will the jacket form properly to your body?

3. You can chemically break in your jacket.

Sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, acetone.

You can use them to chemically heat, strip top coats, and soften leather.

You can also burn holes in your jacket or hurt yourself.

Unless you’re used to working with these chemicals, I’d leave them to the specialists.

Why Trust Me On This?

I’m your resident leather jacket and robust style guy.

I’ve spent hundreds of hours researching jackets, chatting with fellow jacket enthusiasts, and learning about what works and what doesn’t.

I’ve owned many many leather jackets, starting with my first back in high school.

I first came across this method as described by gent with a very large collection of Lost Worlds heavy duty leather jackets.

His post discussing it can be found here at the Fedora Lounge.

But the knowledge has been reinforced by my personal experience and that of many others I’ve talked with.